A Day With John A. in Grand Bay

I first met John A. by reputation. I sort of knew him, but not really. We had never met in person until a few weeks ago when we had lunch at Grace in Mobile. John A. is from Evergreen, Alabama, home of Conecuh Sausage, but lives in Mobile, actually on Fowl River with his wife Kelly. 

He and his brother, and a few cousins were at the University of Alabama around the same time I was, and we were in the same fraternity, yet he is several years younger. Besides just being a good and decent human, his reputation is centered around his writing. He has the gift of describing things as only a small-town person can. 

It’s not a coincidence that so many great writers have roots in small towns. Look at the list of Southerners that have led The New York Times editorial department, like Howell Raines, or Willie Morris who became the youngest editor of Harper’s Magazine in 1967. There is a lyrical prose and style of reflections on the American South by Southern writers that makes them stand out.

John A. has a way with words like Lewis Grizzard. Friends suggested that I ask John A. to write for Scenic 98 Coastal. I should be so lucky, I thought. I began receiving emails with “John A. stories attached. The man is funny! I connected with him and we seemed to hit it off. Most of the stories I read wouldn’t necessarily work for the newsletter, but I could see the potential. 

We talked a few times and he sent me a story that I loved. Living Bra Men was a perfect example and suitable for publication. Then Red Snapper season was approaching last Spring and John wrote another story for us. Lots of people called to tell me how much they enjoyed it. John A.’s stories are always humorous and relatable.

At lunch at Grace, we discussed spending a day in West Mobile County, and he suggested eating at a little hole-in-the-wall place in Bayou La Batre that I’d never heard of. “They have the best fried shrimp I’ve ever eaten,” he tells me. Then I suggested we stop by Sessions Farm Market in Grand Bay. John A. knows the place. He then tells me there is a special evening light that occurs around Coden and Bayou La Batre that is “just different than anywhere else.”

We picked a date to spend the day visiting all these places. It was a Wednesday, and it was raining, but we weren’t complaining because we needed the rain. I picked him up and headed to Bayou Seafood in Bayou La Batre. Seeing the sunset was out, but it didn’t matter because John A. lays out what he has in mind, and it will be a great adventure.

A hole-in-the-wall is a perfect description of Bayou Seafood. I knew it would be good as soon as I saw the building. This is an authentic seafood joint run by people who know how to fry the perfect shrimp, fish, oysters, and on this day, soft shell crabs. The entire menu is stapled to a bulletin board, including the daily specials. It all looked good.

John A. ordered the fried shrimp that got us there in the first place. I was tempted, but I have a hard time passing up soft-shelled crabs. I ordered a cup of gumbo as an appetizer. It had lots of crab claw meat and large shrimp. The soft-shell crab was right out of Portersville Bay and delicious. I watched John eat every single fried shrimp without offering me one, then I gave him a hard time about it. I think I made him feel bad.

After lunch, we drove around to see the sights of Bayou La Batre and Coden. The bayous throughout the area were teeming with docked shrimp boats. I had never seen it so crowded, and this indicates to me that shrimp prices are cheap and fuel prices are high. That’s not a good combination for shrimpers, but I understand they are resourceful and turn to oyster tonging and catching crabs this time of year. 

With little rain, the water salinity should be just right for a delicious oyster crop. As we rode around talking, there were several new boats under construction. John A. had me drive to see two huge casino barges from Tunica, Mississippi that are rumored to become floating condos. “This area has its own way of doing things regarding politics,” he comments. He left it at that. John A. is an observant kind of guy.

We circle the public park and boat launch where he tells me that it's full of locals swimming, fishing, and partying on weekends “It’s a sight to see.”  We then head down the Shell Belt Road that takes us along the waterfront and backwaters where more vessels are being built. I love the industrial aspect of waterfronts. I spent time working in these kinds of places back in the day.

The area is beautiful and makes me think of the movies, The Big Chill and Forrest Gump. John A., who used to travel the world working with his family’s dried flower business in Evergreen, tells me why we are seeing less and less Spanish Moss growing from the trees in the Scenic 98 Coastal area these days. He knows his stuff and explains it to me in detail. “Pollution,” is the short answer. 

“Coden was a desirable vacation destination in the late 1800s when the Mobile and Bay Shore Railroad connected it to Mobile,” John A. tells me. “After the Vietnam War, Vietnamese fishermen and their families moved into the area and have been very successful.”  We then head west toward Grand Bay, passing a strange-looking Russian submarine. “That’s a story for another day,” he tells me.

Grand Bay is near the Alabama state line, and we stop at Sessions Farm Market. It’s a thriving market full of fresh produce, citrus, jellies, jams, peanuts, shelled peas and beans. The freezers are stocked with specialty items. I bought a crawfish pie for dinner, and some Indian corn because it looked cool. Pumpkins were on prominent display both inside and out.

Jeremy Sessions came from the back to visit with us. It turns out John A. and Jeremy have a lot of mutual farmer friends in the Evergreen area, and they hit it off immediately. Jeremy tells us that they farm about 1800 acres and have been doing so since the 1940s. It’s a family affair with his father, Art, and uncle, David, as the primary owners. 

We talk about this year’s cotton crop. “Cotton likes hot, dry weather so it should be a decent year. (I’ve learned through the years that farmers always hedge how good a crop might be). He tells me they grow fruits and vegetables including tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, potatoes, peaches, plums, watermelons, turnips, satsumas, oranges, lemons, and some grapefruit. “There’s lots of family time between Thanksgiving and Christmas and citrus is a heavy seller.” 

”We have about 400 acres of Pecan trees, and it looks like it's going to be a good crop this year.” He tells me that with the drought, the peanut crop may take a hit. Most of what they sell is locally grown or made nearby, like Haven’s Down Home Creamery Ice Cream from Lucedale, and Dean’s Cakes made in Andalusia. Homemade bread from Chef Rob’s Bread Man Bakery in Semmes sits on a shelf and looks delicious. “We buy as local as we can,” he says.

About this time, Jeremy’s Uncle David strolls out to see what’s going on. He is a member of the Alabama Senate representing District 35. The conversation shifts to infrastructure improvements near John A.’s home on Fowl River. David tells me he’s not as involved in running the business as he once was, and he seemed comfortable that things are in good hands. 

At this point, it’s time for John A. and me to head back to Tillmans Corner where I had picked him up. We had each shared lots of stories of mutual interest, and history book suggestions, and had pleasantly killed a rainy day in West Mobile County. I’m pleased that another of John A.’s stories is in the works for the newsletter, and I can’t wait to read it. 

It was a good day with John A. in Grand Bay. I hope we do it again soon. There is so much to learn about the Scenic 98 Coastal area and so many more stories to tell!