Billy Jack's Grill & Bar, Robertsdale

By T. Jensen Lacey

Many old-timers who grew up in Baldwin County and the surrounding area have fond memories of hanging around Judge Roy Bean’s place. A proverbial “hole-in-the-wall” on a spit of land between Fairhope and Daphne (actually, in Montrose), it was owned by the late Jack West and was the go-to spot for people to gather with friends, play with the resident goat (Billy) in the backyard, listen to music and perhaps rub elbows with Jimmy Buffet, who oftentimes stopped in unannounced.

One of the folks who loved that place so much also worked there. Ted Perkins cooked and sometimes bartended at the legendary watering hole, which burned down in 2005. Those memories stayed with him to the extent that, after simply dreaming of creating something similar to “Judge’s,” the dream became a reality. 

With the support and encouragement of his wife Kelli, Ted Perkins joined forces with his son-in-law, Juan Martinez, and his wife, Whitney, and in 2019 they opened Billy Jack’s Grill and Bar, located in Robertsdale, Alabama. “Billy was in memory of the resident goat at Judge’s,” Juan explained, “and Jack is in honor of Jack West.”

The restaurant, which has ample parking, also has plentiful seating indoors and outside on a covered porch. All dining areas have access to wide-screen televisions, so patrons can watch their favorite games as they enjoy a meal or drinks with friends. Billy Jack’s is kid-friendly, with highchairs for little tikes, and a menu (called “The Little Goats,” another salute to Judge’s) that would please the pickiest eater in the peanut gallery.

Their appetizers include what you might find at other similar restaurants: fried pickles and smoked tuna dip. But you might be pleasantly surprised to see that they also offer homemade seafood gumbo, boudin balls, and royal reds (the latter is a large shrimp, which many people say tastes like lobster). Their sandwich menu has something for everyone, from fresh chicken salad on wheatberry bread to crab cake sandwiches, grilled portabella sandwiches, and Conecuh sausage dogs.

Although their burgers are beyond out-of-this-world good (and you can make your own from their “Build Your Own Burger" menu), our go-to has been their Trigger Fish Sandwich. You can get it grilled, blackened, or fried, and with or without cheese. Their sides menu has nearly a dozen choices, and all are made in-house.

If you’ve saved room for dessert, you may want to order our favorite, the Deep Fried Cheesecake. This is big enough to share with 3-4 friends and comes to the table piping hot.

If you’re on your way to (or coming back from) the beach, this is a must-stop. And if you live nearby, consider yourself lucky. But don’t take my word for it—go check it out yourself.

Jack West and Jimmy Buffett would be pleased.