The Forgotten Coast, Apalachicola, FL

By Eleanor Ford

Bob and I bought a new car a couple of weeks ago. It’s a Tesla that Bob has been wanting and researching for months, so we headed out for a short road trip with our elderly chihuahua, Emma Claire. 

Our destination…The Forgotten Coast of Florida is located in the panhandle of Florida, 24 miles past Panama City. This area got its title because it has had little tourism promoted by Florida tourism boards for years. This stretch of U.S. Highway 98 runs south and east and reminds boomers of the Florida beaches from childhood. 

The first village we arrived at was Mexico Beach..known for its low, cinder-block cottages and beautiful water. Hurricane Michael hit it hard. Now cleaned up and building back, you don’t see high rises, but lots of homes and condos. Much has been finished, and more is under construction. Food trucks are scattered around, but there are only a few restaurants to choose from. 

The water is gorgeous, and the narrow beaches are snowy white. You can step out of your cottage door and be at the water’s edge, thus making an easy walk to your beach chair. A vacation at Mexico Beach would best be enjoyed lounging and cooking in, watching sunrises and sunsets, and not worrying about crowds.

As we pressed on, we arrived at Port St. Joe. It's a quaint little town with lovely old homes set back from the water. Hungry for oysters, we stopped at Uptown Raw Bar and Grill. You are given a card and a pencil. Beer and sodas are self-serve. You keep a drink tab on your card, and the server puts in your food order. 

The oysters were cold, fresh, and delicious. The menu has lots to choose from. Fortified, we were ready to move on and headed east toward Apalachicola. Driving was relaxing, and we passed forests of pines, palmettos plants, palms, and the occasional home. The Eastern time zone started somewhere past Port St. Joe, and we arrived in Apalachicola at 4 pm. 

This town is a step back in time. Many old buildings are used as restaurants, bars, cafes, gifts, art, and clothing stores. Each building had its history on a plaque outside, and we enjoyed reading about the sponge, cotton industry, and river commerce. This little town is pet friendly, and you can take your dog almost anywhere, including shops, outdoor restaurants, and inns. 

We chose to stay at The Gibson Inn. It was built in 1907 and has recently undergone extensive renovation. They are presently adding a wing of rooms and a pool. As you enter the lobby, you wonder if Ernest Hemingway may have stayed here. Warm wood floors, leather sofas, botanical prints, and brass fixtures are everywhere, and a beautiful staircase makes it hard to move on to your room. 

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Ours was lovely. We had a big comfy bed with great linens and good pillows and a door that led out to the second-floor porch with rocking chairs. Emma, our dog, thoroughly enjoyed exploring.

The Inn has plenty of complimentary bicycles and also golf carts for rent, which would be great for seeing the town. We decided on Half Shell  Dockside Restaurant for dinner. We were seated on the deck, overlooking the beautiful river. A gentleman played guitar and sang,  and he was pretty good. 

Our server was so attentive that moments after she served our drinks, she reappeared and asked if we were ready for dessert. The seafood was fresh and delicious, and there were landlubber options too. I had a delicious rum punch cocktail. After dining, we returned to The Gibson and sat on our porch, watching the comings and goings on Main Street. 

The next morning. we had a lovely breakfast at the Inn, then strolled our dog around town and visited shops and galleries. You must not miss Grady Market, which features upscale clothing for men and women and housewares. This was a perfect 30-hour trip! I highly recommend it if you’ve never been to the Forgotten Coast! 

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