Day Trippin' to Ocean Springs

It was a glorious Wednesday last week when Linda and I decided it would be a good idea to take some old friends and newly minted Fairhopians on a day trip to Ocean Springs, Mississippi. We have been several times, but this was their first encounter. They were blown away!

Ocean Springs, discovered in 1699 by French explorer Pierre Le Moyne D’Iberville, is one of the towns along the Mississippi Gulf Coast referred to as the “Six Sisters”. Long famous for its luxurious hotels and salubrious atmosphere, it attracted tourists for its curative salt water. Today, it’s a beautiful coastal art community, nestled in salt marshes and bayous filled with stylish shops, great restaurants, and plenty of places to quench your thirst.

An hour and a half from Fairhope, Ocean Springs is the perfect distance for a day trip. We arrived hungry and stopped on Washington Avenue across from Maison de Lu Restaurant and Bar. It was an easy decision. We sat outside on the front porch on the first real Fall-feeling day.

Lunch was truly delicious, but more on that later in our Epicurean Delights feature. 

After a leisurely lunch, we walked a few blocks to the Walter Anderson Museum. This is worth the trip in and of itself. Walter Anderson is legendary along the Gulf Coast. Known as an artist and a naturalist, his works are amazing, his life even more so. Living among the fish, animals, and birds of the “natural world,” he rode out Hurricane Betsy underneath a small boat that he had rowed out to Horn Island, one of the barrier islands in the Mississippi Sound off the coast of Ocean Springs. Walter Anderson has a fascinating story, to say the least.

The Museum is housed in a building that features a small room from his homestead where Anderson locked himself away for long periods, painting each wall with murals reflecting his connection to nature and man and the direction each wall was facing. On the other side of the Museum is a large community center, still in use, where Anderson spent a full year painting every inch of the walls with his exquisite murals for which he received $1 in payment. In between are exhibits of Anderson’s works and life stories that will astound you.

By this time, our heads are swimming with so much to absorb. We strolled down Washington Avenue poking our heads into art galleries, gift shops, and a few watering holes with great names like Village Idiot, Knuckleheads, and  Office Bar & Lounge. There are cool restaurants, coffee shops, and Bed and Breakfasts along the way. It was beautiful weather and the walk helped us loosen our belts a bit.

We then headed by car over the Shearwater Bridge that spans the entrance to the “back harbor” of the Oceans Springs Inner Harbor to Walter Anderson’s homeplace. Here you can see the great marshes and shrimp boats that make this place so special. The homeplace is where Walter and his brother, Peter, operated Shearwater Pottery on the 24 acres their parents had purchased in 1918. 

You will see some of Water’s original figurines and Peter’s original pottery here. Most of what they now have at Shearwater are reproductions made by their descendants after Hurricane Katrina destroyed the original property. A lot of the original works were lost but reproductions can be purchased here.

For prints of Walter Anderson’s art, as well as note cards, clothing, and other items utilizing his designs, go to Realizations at the old Train Depot in Ocean Springs. It’s a small shop run by Walter Anderson’s children, dedicated to making his art accessible to more people. Plan to stay a while as you browse the extensive hand-made silk-screened prints and textiles featuring his unique block print designs.  Prints painted with watercolor are done by local artists and each one is different.

If you have time, check out the Davis Bayous Area of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. There is a lot of history associated with this barrier island chain that reaches between the coasts of Florida and Mississippi. The drive along U.S. Highway 90 all along the Mississippi coast is beautiful. There are still reminders of hurricanes past, and we feel very fortunate not to be dealing with the wrath of Ian on this particular September day as others in Florida were.  

It was an enjoyable afternoon, and we took full advantage of all Ocean Springs has to offer!