Once they’ve been to Nassau, the capital of The Bahamas, many people think, “Ok, been there, I’ve done that, I’ve been to The Bahamas.” While, about five decades ago, I was a part of this category of people, once I discovered the “Out-Islands,” also known as “The Family Islands,” I fell in love with an entirely new and unique aspect of true Bahamian island life.

According to the Bahamas Department of Tourism, although there are more than 700 islands in the Bahamian island chain, only about 20 are inhabited. Although the original native people who populated these islands lived here, once the American Revolution was over and King George III rewarded his British Loyalists with land in those Caribbean islands, the indigenous Lucayan Indians quickly became extinct..

What makes the Family Islands unique? Well, for one thing, each island has its own slightly varied culture, pace of daily life, and the families who live on them have been here since—well, the end of the 18^th century.

Here are some examples: in the Abacos, part of The Bahamas, many of those islands are inhabited by families who pursue a certain trade. Man O’War Cay (pronounced ‘key’) is composed mostly of sail-making and boat-building families, while Little Harbour’s first (and then, only) settlers consisted of a sculptor by the name of Johnson, his wife, and their three children. While he was building their home and sculpture gallery, for five years he and his family lived in a cave, which, although inaccessible to tourists, you can see the cave entrance from the harbor. Although Little Harbour has little else of a commercial nature, the art gallery and the nearly world-famous beachside bar and grill known as Pete’s Pub make visiting here worth the trip (there are moorings in the harbor for boats staying overnight).

Another island, Guana Cay, has a delightful restaurant known as Nipper’s and is accessible by ferry (from the main island of Marsh Harbour). Nipper’s is built atop what may be the highest point on Guana Cay, and it’s a delight just to sit and watch the occasional whale swim by in the Atlantic Ocean. Nipper’s is perhaps best known for their pig roast, which they have with all the trimmings every Sunday.

Perhaps the best-known and most popular island in the Family Island chain of The Abacos would be, hands-down, Elbow Cay. The village of Hope Town is here, and on this island, you can see the place where the first Loyalists disembarked from their ships to make the Bahamas their home.

Hope Town is visible from miles away by its signature, candy-striped lighthouse, which intrepid tourists can climb the 101 steps of for an unforgettable view of the Sea of Abaco and Hope Town Harbour. This island is popular for those who want to wander both the beaches of the Atlantic Ocean and Hope Town Harbour, for this island is about 20 miles long but only ½ mile wide. For the most part, automobiles are not allowed on Elbow Cay, but there are golf cart and bicycle rental places, and the island is extremely walkable. 

Besides the lighthouse, there is a great variety of restaurants, lodges, and rental houses, and there are a couple of places that will rent motorboats by the day or week. Due to the many reefs surrounding Hope Town, I recommend a guide to safely steer your boat while you enjoy your time aboard with friends and family.

The town of Marsh Harbour on Great Guana Cay is perhaps the busiest. From Marsh Harbour, tourists can take a ferry to most of the other islands. Marsh Harbour is where most people arrive by air, then get their provisions for a week's stay on the other islands (there are a few grocery stores on the other islands, but they are more expensive), and there are several exceptionally good restaurants on this island. My personal favorite is Wally’s, which has a nice view of the harbour and some of the best food you can have in the Bahamas. They are celebrating their 40^th year of serving their hungry clientele, and, like here, no restaurant can last long if it’s mediocre.

Check out The Family Islands, just north of Nassau. You will come away from your days and evenings of walking beaches, shelling, snorkeling, fishing, dining out, and sunning with a new appreciation for and understanding of The Bahamas, and maybe, like my family, it will become a multigenerational destination.

For more on these unique islands, go to www.Bahamas.com.