By Jay Chalmers

The Fish River is a microcosm of Baldwin County. Flowing North to South, it slowly transitions from a sparsely populated, forested wilderness into a more modern, suburban landscape. The best way to experience that evolution is kayaking downstream from Bohemian Park to Big Daddy’s Grill. Boone's Landing splits the trip in two. Upstream from the Landing is mostly forested, shallow, and has a steady current. Downstream is wider, slower, sunnier, and developed. While there are no guided trips or shuttles on this route, if you have access to a kayak, you will avoid crowds on this relaxing 2-4 hour one-way paddle.

After I put in at Bohemian Park, a smooth current gently tugs my kayak off the bank and into the river's flow. At a slow walking pace, I glide into the first half of the trip. The water is tinted a slight brownish red from tannins absorbed from fallen leaves and red clay. However, it’s still clear enough to see the rippled sandy bottom a few feet below.

I save my strength, letting the current take me and using my paddle mostly to steer as I’m carried along through twists and turns of the narrow river. A few snags and fallen trees require a careful eye to find the best way through. One branch is so low that I have to take off my hat and duck under it. Later, a log just below the water requires some shimmying to get my kayak over.

An eccentric group of volunteers maintains this section of the Fish River and calls themselves “Idiots with Chain Saws.” After a big storm, when fallen trees make the river not only dangerous but sometimes impossible to traverse, these renegades grab their namesake tools of the trade. They stand in chest-deep water, cutting through huge logs and risking life, limb, and cottonmouth bites. These humble men say they do it because they love the river and want to allow others to enjoy it too.

Bulbous cypress bases line the banks. Columns of twisted juniper trunks support the vaulted arch canopy above. Vines and brush fill in the space between, creating an impenetrable wall of green.

Turtles slide off their sunning logs and plop into the water one by one like dominoes. A fawn dashes through the bushes on one of the high clay banks. The water is so shallow in a few places that I scrape the sand below. I carefully brush a spindly-legged spider off the front of my kayak…one of the hazards of pushing my way through those low branches. My fear of spiders has made me adept at this exercise.

This part of the river feels almost untouched, out of time. No hints of the modern world remain except some neatly sawed logs (courtesy of the “Idiots”). The only sounds are the ripples of the water, the slosh of my paddles, the chirping of birds, and the singing of cicadas. Gradually, hints of civilization emerge. Some signs tell tales of parties long ago, like a rope swing, an old dock, and an overgrown slide. Other places look like the party ended just a few hours ago, with lawn chairs, a grill, and beer cans still sitting on a table. A basketball hoop screwed to the end of a log has me looking for something to toss through it.

After missing my shot, I guide my kayak to a sandy bank for a break. Stepping out into the cool, flowing water, I feel the smooth sand between my toes. I enjoy the peaceful setting and let my mind drift as I sip from my water bottle.

About an hour into the trip, I reach the halfway point: Boone’s Landing. It’s easy to miss from the river. If you look closely on the right, you’ll see a big grey house, and just before it, through the trees, a street sign that says “Boone Ln Ext”. There’s a gravel boat slide (I wouldn’t call it a ramp).

From Boone’s Landing on, the river changes dramatically. The water gets much deeper, and you can no longer see the bottom. The river grows wider, and there is less shade. The current slows to a trickle, requiring a lot more paddling and sweat. The good news is that no obstacles block the route, making the work less technical. Beginners can do the second section of the trip from Boone’s Landing to Big Daddy’s Grill, while the faster current and obstacles in the first section require a little experience. The current is slow enough that you could even start at Big Daddy’s, paddle upstream to Boone’s Landing, and paddle back.

In the river that bears their name, fish swirl the mirrored black surface. With every stroke toward Big Daddy’s, the forested banks give way to more homes with boathouses and docks. This is where we see Baldwin County's evolution into the 21st century. When I reach the County Road 32 bridge, both sides of the river are fully developed.

Though it differs from the natural beauty of the first section, there’s still a lot to see and enjoy here. Look closely as you pass near Clay City to see if you can spot one of the massive brick kilns that once fired Clay City Tiles. These precursors to concrete blocks make up the structures of many nearby historic buildings.

The Fish River is too quiet for people-watching, but it’s great for property watching. I see every kind of dwelling from old shacks on stilts to modern coastal homes with fancy boathouses. Flags display the owners’ sports teams, and quirky signs share their personalities. Some have pontoon boats tied to docks; others have center consoles on lifts. Some have fishing poles; others have paddleboards. It’s a fascinating variety of architectural, decorating, and landscaping styles. I take mental notes and fantasize about how I would set up my dream waterfront property.

A couple in a pontoon boat chugs by me and waves, snapping me out of my reverie. My shoulders start to cramp a bit from the exertion, and as I round each bend in the river, I hope to see Big Daddy’s Grill around the corner. After several disappointments, and just as sweat starts to run down my face, an opening on the right side of the river reveals the tell-tale marina and back porch of my destination. I paddle to a small concrete boat ramp to the right of the restaurant. I step out on wobbly legs and drag my kayak up the ramp and into the grass. Then I walk unsteadily over to Big Daddy’s for the cold beer and burger I’ve been craving for the past three hours…but that is a story for another day.

The Trip

It’s one-way, so leave a vehicle at the end or arrange for someone to pick you up. It will take 2-4 hours depending on paddling speed.

Start at Bohemian Park (12520 County Road 48, Fairhope, AL) and finish at Big Daddy’s Grill (16542 Ferry Road, Fairhope, AL). The halfway point is Boone’s Landing (12620 Boone Lane, Fairhope, AL).